The fabled and mystical island of Madagascar is one of the most sought-after destinations for nature enthusiasts. It is a treasure trove of biodiversity and a living laboratory of evolution. From lemurs to chameleons, to birds and geckos, and don't forget the baobabs and octopus trees - Madagascar is known for its incredible wildlife that you won't find anywhere else in the world.
This isolated island, which has borne wildly strange creatures and plants, is remarkable in every way. Since the island separated from the east coast of Africa more than 60 million years ago and drifted into the Indian Ocean, its wildlife has followed an independent course of evolution. The complement of life forms here is remarkably different from that in Africa. The large size of the island (the world’s 4th largest) and its many different landforms and habitats have also allowed a great diversification of these forms. Madagascar has an astonishingly high level of biodiversity and endemism for its size - occupying just 0.4% of the world's land mass, it contains 5% of the world's biodiversity, with approximately 90% of the flora and fauna endemic.
Our group was able to experience this overall uniqueness and great variety by visiting some of the best wildlife reserves in different parts of this island nation. We explored biodiverse rainforests, unique and strange Spiny Forests, impressive canyons and gorges, prominent ruiniform sandstone formations, ocean-side beaches, and more. Our lodges and hotels were not only very accommodating but also conveniently located near nature reserves.
Our local guide for the tour was the very professional and knowledgeable, Nono. Nono, was wonderful with our group, super accommodating, and had a well-rounded expertise that lent itself well to our group with wide interests. Nono works with Fano Andrianirina, a well-known Madagascar guide, who helps companies and clients develop custom itineraries for Madagascar. Nono was with us for the full duration of the tour, meanwhile, site guides (required for various reserves) accompanied us on particular legs or just at specific sites. Special mention goes out to Julien, our site guide for the Andasibe area. Julien was an extraordinary birder, who (with the help of his brother Marcelon as a tracker) worked so hard to find many of our target birds, lemurs and lizards and gave our group excellent viewing opportunities.
See below for a daily itinerary, with avian and non-avian highlights.
Day 1 - Nov 1st - Arrival and Acclimatization
Getting to Madagascar is an arduous journey, taking over 20 hours for each of our participants. Because of this, most participants opted to arrive a few days earlier to give themselves time to catch up from jet lag and the exhaustion of travel. For this day, birding was done from the comfort of Hotel Au Bois Vert, conveniently located 15 minutes from the Ivato International Airport. Birding around the hotel gardens served as a brief introduction to common (but of course endemic) Madagascar birds such as Red Fody, Madagascar Bulbul, Malagasy Brush-Warbler, Malagasy White-eye, Madagascar Magpie-Robin, Madagascar Munia, Madagascar Wagtail, even some conveniently-perched Madagascar Nightjar near the pool that came alive at night calling as they foraged throughout the grounds.
Getting to Madagascar is an arduous journey, taking over 20 hours for each of our participants. Because of this, most participants opted to arrive a few days earlier to give themselves time to catch up from jet lag and the exhaustion of travel. For this day, birding was done from the comfort of Hotel Au Bois Vert, conveniently located 15 minutes from the Ivato International Airport. Birding around the hotel gardens served as a brief introduction to common (but of course endemic) Madagascar birds such as Red Fody, Madagascar Bulbul, Malagasy Brush-Warbler, Malagasy White-eye, Madagascar Magpie-Robin, Madagascar Munia, Madagascar Wagtail, even some conveniently-perched Madagascar Nightjar near the pool that came alive at night calling as they foraged throughout the grounds.
Day 2 - Nov. 2nd - Arrival and Acclimatization
Local Guides: Nono
As we waited for the last of our participants to arrive we decided to make an impromptu trip to Tsarasaotra Park which contacts Lake Alarobia a Ramsar wetland. Although it's located at the heart of Antannanaivo's (the largest city in Madagascar) industrial district, the park serves as a refuge for waterfowl, and an opportunity for our group to get a few more species, not normally seen around the hotel. Although we dipped on the Madagascar pond heron, Meller's duck and Madagascar little grebe. Highlights included hundreds of waterfowl including various ducks, herons, and egrets, as well as the Madagascar Swamp Warbler. This is certainly a worthwhile stop if you have some time to spare for birding around the city.
Local Guides: Nono
As we waited for the last of our participants to arrive we decided to make an impromptu trip to Tsarasaotra Park which contacts Lake Alarobia a Ramsar wetland. Although it's located at the heart of Antannanaivo's (the largest city in Madagascar) industrial district, the park serves as a refuge for waterfowl, and an opportunity for our group to get a few more species, not normally seen around the hotel. Although we dipped on the Madagascar pond heron, Meller's duck and Madagascar little grebe. Highlights included hundreds of waterfowl including various ducks, herons, and egrets, as well as the Madagascar Swamp Warbler. This is certainly a worthwhile stop if you have some time to spare for birding around the city.
Day 3 - Nov. 3rd - Drive from Antananarivo to Andasibe + V.O.I.M.M.A. Community Reserve
Guides: Nono and Julien
The drive to Andasibe (also known as Périnet) was supposed to take ~3.5hrs but ended up taking ~7hrs because of various stops and construction along the way. Along the way, we got to appreciate the changing scenery of farming country, rice paddies, and different housing styles which utilized the locally available Mars-esque red earth. Roadside brick-making kilns and steeply sloped, peaked roofs characteristic of the Merina people were interesting cultural sights. We arrived by ~2pm to Anasibe, in the heart of one of Madagascar's premier rainforest locations, where we would spend the next 3 nights. Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, several NGOs, and community conservation reserves are located in a relatively close vicinity, offering exceptional viewing opportunities to explore the eastern rainforests, Madagascar's most biodiverse region. Our accommodation, Andasibe Cyperus Hotel was located a close distance from several reserves. After checking in, we had a late lunch and then had a very short drive to the nearby 28ha V.O.I.M.M.A Community Reserve. The name is abbreviated from vondron'olona ifotony miaro sy mitia ny ala, meaning "a local community group for loving and protecting the forest". By the time we arrived, we were nearing dusk. Although lighting was a challenge due to the short amount of daylight hours, we had a productive hike thanks to Julien and Nono. Highlights include Tylas Vanga, Gray-crowned Tetraka, a massive colourful Parson's chameleon, and Eastern Wooly Lemur.
Guides: Nono and Julien
The drive to Andasibe (also known as Périnet) was supposed to take ~3.5hrs but ended up taking ~7hrs because of various stops and construction along the way. Along the way, we got to appreciate the changing scenery of farming country, rice paddies, and different housing styles which utilized the locally available Mars-esque red earth. Roadside brick-making kilns and steeply sloped, peaked roofs characteristic of the Merina people were interesting cultural sights. We arrived by ~2pm to Anasibe, in the heart of one of Madagascar's premier rainforest locations, where we would spend the next 3 nights. Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, several NGOs, and community conservation reserves are located in a relatively close vicinity, offering exceptional viewing opportunities to explore the eastern rainforests, Madagascar's most biodiverse region. Our accommodation, Andasibe Cyperus Hotel was located a close distance from several reserves. After checking in, we had a late lunch and then had a very short drive to the nearby 28ha V.O.I.M.M.A Community Reserve. The name is abbreviated from vondron'olona ifotony miaro sy mitia ny ala, meaning "a local community group for loving and protecting the forest". By the time we arrived, we were nearing dusk. Although lighting was a challenge due to the short amount of daylight hours, we had a productive hike thanks to Julien and Nono. Highlights include Tylas Vanga, Gray-crowned Tetraka, a massive colourful Parson's chameleon, and Eastern Wooly Lemur.
Day 4 - Nov. 4th - Analamazaotra Special Reserve
Guides: Nono, Julien, Marcelon
At Andasibe Cyperus Hotel, there is nothing that whets the appetite more in the morning than seeing the morning fog give way to rainforest edges, and hearing the erie calls of the iconic Indri nearby. Both after breakfast, as well as in the afternoon we road-birded our way along Lalan’Andasibe (Andasibe Road). Road birding although less natural feeling is a productive way to bird covering more ground and giving more unobstructed views for better viewing and photographic opportunities. Highlights of road birding included: Madagascar Blue-Pigeon, Madagascar Green Pigeon, Madagascar Scops Owl (Rainforest), Madagascar Owl, Blue Coua, Lesser Vasa Parrot, Red-tailed Vanga, Chabert Vanga, Madagascar Blue Vanga, Ward's Flycatcher, White-headed Vanga, Long-billed Bernia Stripe-throated Jery, Spectacled Tetraka, Rand's Warbler. We had super close views of Brown Lemurs crossing the road, so close we could have given them high fives. Between road birding we spent a few hours, hiking the trails of Analamazaotra Special Reserve, which lived up to its name as THE place to see Indri. Analamazaotra is a reasonable example of mid-altitude montane rainfresot covering 810ha. Within an hour we were within a friendly distance of the world's largest living lemurs. We saw many of the aforementioned species plus other highlights such as: Red-fronted Coua, reach-out-and-grab-it views of Collared Nightjar nesting in a tree fern, White-throated Rail, Velvet Asity, Forest Fody, and Malagasy Kingfisher. If that wasn't enough, those with enough energy attended a night walk along Lalan’Andasibe (Andasibe Road) where we viewed Goodman’s Mouse Lemur, Dwarf lemur (Cheirogaleus sp.), Mossy Leaf-tailed Gecko, Green Bright-Eyed Frog, and Betsileo Reed Frog.
Guides: Nono, Julien, Marcelon
At Andasibe Cyperus Hotel, there is nothing that whets the appetite more in the morning than seeing the morning fog give way to rainforest edges, and hearing the erie calls of the iconic Indri nearby. Both after breakfast, as well as in the afternoon we road-birded our way along Lalan’Andasibe (Andasibe Road). Road birding although less natural feeling is a productive way to bird covering more ground and giving more unobstructed views for better viewing and photographic opportunities. Highlights of road birding included: Madagascar Blue-Pigeon, Madagascar Green Pigeon, Madagascar Scops Owl (Rainforest), Madagascar Owl, Blue Coua, Lesser Vasa Parrot, Red-tailed Vanga, Chabert Vanga, Madagascar Blue Vanga, Ward's Flycatcher, White-headed Vanga, Long-billed Bernia Stripe-throated Jery, Spectacled Tetraka, Rand's Warbler. We had super close views of Brown Lemurs crossing the road, so close we could have given them high fives. Between road birding we spent a few hours, hiking the trails of Analamazaotra Special Reserve, which lived up to its name as THE place to see Indri. Analamazaotra is a reasonable example of mid-altitude montane rainfresot covering 810ha. Within an hour we were within a friendly distance of the world's largest living lemurs. We saw many of the aforementioned species plus other highlights such as: Red-fronted Coua, reach-out-and-grab-it views of Collared Nightjar nesting in a tree fern, White-throated Rail, Velvet Asity, Forest Fody, and Malagasy Kingfisher. If that wasn't enough, those with enough energy attended a night walk along Lalan’Andasibe (Andasibe Road) where we viewed Goodman’s Mouse Lemur, Dwarf lemur (Cheirogaleus sp.), Mossy Leaf-tailed Gecko, Green Bright-Eyed Frog, and Betsileo Reed Frog.
Day 5 - Nov. 5th - Andasibe-Mantadia National Park + Analamazaotra Special Reserve
Guides: Nono, Julien, and Marcelon
We were treated to a Greater Vasa Parrot on one of the large trees in front of the hotel, before we left for our morning activity. 4x4s vehicles are recommended to travel the poorly maintained dirt road ~15km road north, which takes 1.5-2hrs. Along the way, we made some impromptu stops to see Eastern Bamboo Lemurs and face-melting views of the beautiful Pitta-like Ground-Rollers observed running across mossy logs on the ground. The added difficulty is well worth it to view the primary mid-altitude rainforest, with huge epiphyte-covered trees and lush understory dominated by tree-ferns and Pandanus spp. Avian highlights were: Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Red-breasted Coua, Scaly Ground-Roller, Short-legged Ground-Roller, and Wedge-tailed Jery. Non-Avian highlights here were a raucous conspiracy of Black-and-White Ruffed Lemurs, Baron's Mantella Frog, and a Fire Red Millipede. After lunch in the field, we decided to return to Analamazaotra, where we would have better chances at seeing the Diademed Sifaka. Although considerable effort was put in, our decision paid off, and we were able to spend quality time viewing a group of these rusty orange lemurs.
Guides: Nono, Julien, and Marcelon
We were treated to a Greater Vasa Parrot on one of the large trees in front of the hotel, before we left for our morning activity. 4x4s vehicles are recommended to travel the poorly maintained dirt road ~15km road north, which takes 1.5-2hrs. Along the way, we made some impromptu stops to see Eastern Bamboo Lemurs and face-melting views of the beautiful Pitta-like Ground-Rollers observed running across mossy logs on the ground. The added difficulty is well worth it to view the primary mid-altitude rainforest, with huge epiphyte-covered trees and lush understory dominated by tree-ferns and Pandanus spp. Avian highlights were: Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Red-breasted Coua, Scaly Ground-Roller, Short-legged Ground-Roller, and Wedge-tailed Jery. Non-Avian highlights here were a raucous conspiracy of Black-and-White Ruffed Lemurs, Baron's Mantella Frog, and a Fire Red Millipede. After lunch in the field, we decided to return to Analamazaotra, where we would have better chances at seeing the Diademed Sifaka. Although considerable effort was put in, our decision paid off, and we were able to spend quality time viewing a group of these rusty orange lemurs.
Day 6 - Nov. 6th - Lemur Island + Return to Antananarivo
Guides: Nono, Julien, and Marcelon
Before returning to Tana, we drove to Lemur Island to get some up-close and personal views of lemurs. Near the entrance, Julien knew of a location to check for the Madagascar Flufftail. With some patience, Julien was able to coax out the secretive mouse-like bird for a brief view. We then took a very short boat ride across a moat and onto one of the "lemur islands". We received a tour with a nice spiel about how they contribute to species conservation by rescuing lemurs from the pet trade and habitat loss and reintroductions back into the wild. It's still to be determined how accurate their statements were. We then made our way back to Au Bois Vert Hotel in Tana.
Guides: Nono, Julien, and Marcelon
Before returning to Tana, we drove to Lemur Island to get some up-close and personal views of lemurs. Near the entrance, Julien knew of a location to check for the Madagascar Flufftail. With some patience, Julien was able to coax out the secretive mouse-like bird for a brief view. We then took a very short boat ride across a moat and onto one of the "lemur islands". We received a tour with a nice spiel about how they contribute to species conservation by rescuing lemurs from the pet trade and habitat loss and reintroductions back into the wild. It's still to be determined how accurate their statements were. We then made our way back to Au Bois Vert Hotel in Tana.
Day 7 - Nov 7th - Flight to Toliara
This was a travel day, where to took an internal flight from Antananarivo to Toliara (Tuléar). We then drove from Toliara to our accommodation in Ifaty. No new birds were added to our lists.
This was a travel day, where to took an internal flight from Antananarivo to Toliara (Tuléar). We then drove from Toliara to our accommodation in Ifaty. No new birds were added to our lists.
Day 8 - Nov 8th - Ifaty Spiny Forest
Guides: Nono, Freddy, Guyeela (?), and Rulie (?)
To avoid the quickly intensifying heat of the day we left Hôtel La Mira de Madiorano, our ocean-side lodge, before breakfast. We drove a short distance to Reserve Reniala, a private reserve owned by locals, that protects one of the most bizarre and distinctive habitats on the planet, the Spiny Forests. It felt like we were in a real-life Dr. Seus book. The Spiny Forest is an arid and xerophytic habitat, and compared to other areas flora and faunal diversity is lower, but endemism is very high. Drought-tolerant plants with spines, thorns, and succulent stems such as Baobabs, tall Pachypodiums, Octopus trees (Didiereaceae spp.), and Eurphorbiaceae dominated the landscape. With the help of our active site guides, we saw most of our target birds including the roadrunner-like Long-tailed Ground-Roller, Running Coua, and the extraordinary, and evolutionary ancient Subdesert Mesite, belonging to an endemic order Mesitonithirformes. After the Spiny Forest, we visited the Ifaty Salt Pans picking up a few shorebirds, most notably the endemic Madagascar Plover. After breakfast and a relaxing afternoon at Hôtel La Mira de Madiorano, we resumed activities in the cooler afternoon, returning to the Spiny Forest, but this time focusing on non-Avian creatures. Again our active site guides delivered, dashing into thorny thickets to find various treasures including Dumeril's Boa, Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec, and various unique invertebrates. We also saw Madagascar Harrier-Hawk, Archbold's Newtonia, and Thamnornis. The team of site guides certainly put in the legwork to find our group Spiny Forest specialties this morning and afternoon.
Guides: Nono, Freddy, Guyeela (?), and Rulie (?)
To avoid the quickly intensifying heat of the day we left Hôtel La Mira de Madiorano, our ocean-side lodge, before breakfast. We drove a short distance to Reserve Reniala, a private reserve owned by locals, that protects one of the most bizarre and distinctive habitats on the planet, the Spiny Forests. It felt like we were in a real-life Dr. Seus book. The Spiny Forest is an arid and xerophytic habitat, and compared to other areas flora and faunal diversity is lower, but endemism is very high. Drought-tolerant plants with spines, thorns, and succulent stems such as Baobabs, tall Pachypodiums, Octopus trees (Didiereaceae spp.), and Eurphorbiaceae dominated the landscape. With the help of our active site guides, we saw most of our target birds including the roadrunner-like Long-tailed Ground-Roller, Running Coua, and the extraordinary, and evolutionary ancient Subdesert Mesite, belonging to an endemic order Mesitonithirformes. After the Spiny Forest, we visited the Ifaty Salt Pans picking up a few shorebirds, most notably the endemic Madagascar Plover. After breakfast and a relaxing afternoon at Hôtel La Mira de Madiorano, we resumed activities in the cooler afternoon, returning to the Spiny Forest, but this time focusing on non-Avian creatures. Again our active site guides delivered, dashing into thorny thickets to find various treasures including Dumeril's Boa, Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec, and various unique invertebrates. We also saw Madagascar Harrier-Hawk, Archbold's Newtonia, and Thamnornis. The team of site guides certainly put in the legwork to find our group Spiny Forest specialties this morning and afternoon.
Day 9 - Nosy Ve + Anakao
We departed Ifaty and headed back to Toliara where we boarded a small covered boat that would take us to the small island of Nosy Ve, and then to Anakao. This is a much quicker and more enjoyable way to travel from Toliara to Anakao. Nosy Ve is a small sandy island with a tuft of spiny forest. It is also one of the best places to see Red-tailed Tropicbirds which nest on the island. We also scored a small number of other water birds like Lesser and Great Crested Tern, Gray Heron, Ruddy Turnstone and Sanderlings. After the brief stop, we continued our way directly to Anakao Ocean Lodge, our secluded ocean-side lodge with white sand and matching white stone bungalows and bungalows. We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in this idyllic location.
We departed Ifaty and headed back to Toliara where we boarded a small covered boat that would take us to the small island of Nosy Ve, and then to Anakao. This is a much quicker and more enjoyable way to travel from Toliara to Anakao. Nosy Ve is a small sandy island with a tuft of spiny forest. It is also one of the best places to see Red-tailed Tropicbirds which nest on the island. We also scored a small number of other water birds like Lesser and Great Crested Tern, Gray Heron, Ruddy Turnstone and Sanderlings. After the brief stop, we continued our way directly to Anakao Ocean Lodge, our secluded ocean-side lodge with white sand and matching white stone bungalows and bungalows. We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in this idyllic location.
Day 10 - Tsimanampetsotse National Park
Guides: Nono, Julian, Felix, other spotter
With 4x4 vehicles we drove the sandy road route to Tsimanampetsotse National Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, with bulbous baobabs, swollen Pachypodiums, an alkaline lake, and subterranean cave systems with endemic blind cave fish. Along the way, we spotted the Littoral Rock-Thrush, Ring-tailed Lemurs, and an endangered Radiated Tortoise. When we arrived we were greeted by a gigantic extinct Tsimanampetsotse Elephant Bird, unfortunately not a real one. Our lead site guide Juilien and his spotters helped attain several avian highlights for the day such as Verreux's Coua, Madagascar Sandgrouse, Greater and Lesser Flamingo, Madagascar Plover, Madagascar Buttonquail, Madagascar Harrier-Hawk, Madagascar Bee-easter, Greater and Lesser Vasa Parrot, Lafresnaye's Vanga, Malagasy Paradise-Flycatcher, and Subdesert Brush-Warbler. I would be remiss if I didn't mention other sightings such as the famous Grandmother Baobab, one of the largest and oldest Adansonia ruprostipa specimens, as well as Madagascar Hissing Cockroach, Dumeril's Madagascar Swift, Merrem's Madagascar Swift, and blind cave fish.
Guides: Nono, Julian, Felix, other spotter
With 4x4 vehicles we drove the sandy road route to Tsimanampetsotse National Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, with bulbous baobabs, swollen Pachypodiums, an alkaline lake, and subterranean cave systems with endemic blind cave fish. Along the way, we spotted the Littoral Rock-Thrush, Ring-tailed Lemurs, and an endangered Radiated Tortoise. When we arrived we were greeted by a gigantic extinct Tsimanampetsotse Elephant Bird, unfortunately not a real one. Our lead site guide Juilien and his spotters helped attain several avian highlights for the day such as Verreux's Coua, Madagascar Sandgrouse, Greater and Lesser Flamingo, Madagascar Plover, Madagascar Buttonquail, Madagascar Harrier-Hawk, Madagascar Bee-easter, Greater and Lesser Vasa Parrot, Lafresnaye's Vanga, Malagasy Paradise-Flycatcher, and Subdesert Brush-Warbler. I would be remiss if I didn't mention other sightings such as the famous Grandmother Baobab, one of the largest and oldest Adansonia ruprostipa specimens, as well as Madagascar Hissing Cockroach, Dumeril's Madagascar Swift, Merrem's Madagascar Swift, and blind cave fish.
Day 11 - Return to Toliara + Drive to Isalo
We returned by boat to Toliara then drove to Antsokay's Arboretum for lunch and a walk around to view the 900 botanical specimens, most of which are from the Spiny Forest ecosystem. No new bird species were added except the Sakalava Weaver, which meant we saw both of Madagascar's weaver species. The mostly bumpy road to Isalo took approximately 5hrs. Our accommodation here was Le Jardin du Roy, an architecturally enchanting hotel with hotel grounds nestled into surrounding “ruiniform” sandstone formations. At night at the lodge we heard White-browed Owl and the other subspecies of Madagascar Scops-Owl (Torotoroka).
We returned by boat to Toliara then drove to Antsokay's Arboretum for lunch and a walk around to view the 900 botanical specimens, most of which are from the Spiny Forest ecosystem. No new bird species were added except the Sakalava Weaver, which meant we saw both of Madagascar's weaver species. The mostly bumpy road to Isalo took approximately 5hrs. Our accommodation here was Le Jardin du Roy, an architecturally enchanting hotel with hotel grounds nestled into surrounding “ruiniform” sandstone formations. At night at the lodge we heard White-browed Owl and the other subspecies of Madagascar Scops-Owl (Torotoroka).
Day 12 - Isalo National Park
Guides: Nono, and Florice
After breakfast we picked up our site guide, Florice and made our way to Isalo National Park. On route, Florice gave a nice introduction to the park, discussing the broad ecological and cultural importance of the area. The extensive and spectacularly eroded sandstone massifs, with huge outcrops, create a beautiful and deep canyon scenery. Madagascar Tapia Tree dominates the dry areas, while Elephant Foot Plant (Pachypodium rosulatum gracilius) and Isalo Aloe cling to the sandstone massifs. Conspiqquous patches of forest and strips of vegetation concentrate along seasonal, watercourses. Although the park's Verraux's Sifakas population has dwindled since the encouraging habitat loss, there is still a Ring-tailed Lemur population. The lemurs eluded us but the expansive views were captivating. Highlights were Malagasy Coucal, Madagascar Cuckoo, Malagasy Kestrel, Gray-headed Lovebird, Madagascar Lark, and Forest Rock-Thrush. We also saw several lizards notably a huge Oustalet's Chameleon, as well as some oddball insects including a Rainbow Milkweed Locust, and a spacey-looking Owlfly.
Guides: Nono, and Florice
After breakfast we picked up our site guide, Florice and made our way to Isalo National Park. On route, Florice gave a nice introduction to the park, discussing the broad ecological and cultural importance of the area. The extensive and spectacularly eroded sandstone massifs, with huge outcrops, create a beautiful and deep canyon scenery. Madagascar Tapia Tree dominates the dry areas, while Elephant Foot Plant (Pachypodium rosulatum gracilius) and Isalo Aloe cling to the sandstone massifs. Conspiqquous patches of forest and strips of vegetation concentrate along seasonal, watercourses. Although the park's Verraux's Sifakas population has dwindled since the encouraging habitat loss, there is still a Ring-tailed Lemur population. The lemurs eluded us but the expansive views were captivating. Highlights were Malagasy Coucal, Madagascar Cuckoo, Malagasy Kestrel, Gray-headed Lovebird, Madagascar Lark, and Forest Rock-Thrush. We also saw several lizards notably a huge Oustalet's Chameleon, as well as some oddball insects including a Rainbow Milkweed Locust, and a spacey-looking Owlfly.
Day 13 - Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park
Guides: Nono, Brition(?) and Lisons (?)
After breakfast, we quickly toured the grounds to get some good shots of the resident Madagascar Hoopoes and Gray-headed Lovebird. Then after checking out, we drove back towards Toliara, first stopping at a reputable gemstone dealer, since the area is well known for its sapphire deposits. Then we made our way to Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park, the last remnant of transitional dry deciduous forest between the western and southern floristic domains. Here our guides were quite helpful in delivering our targets and more, including Coquerel's Coua, Giant Coua, Madagascar Scops Owl (Torotoroka sub sp.), White-Browed Owl, on nest Hook-billed and Rufous Vanga, the highly localized Appert's Tetraka, and the supremely weird, Cuckoo-roller, which hails from another one of Madagascar's endemic orders, the Leptosomiformes. After this visit, we made our way back to Toliara where we stayed at Bakuba Hotel, equally as weird and beautiful as the Cuckoo-Roller.
Guides: Nono, Brition(?) and Lisons (?)
After breakfast, we quickly toured the grounds to get some good shots of the resident Madagascar Hoopoes and Gray-headed Lovebird. Then after checking out, we drove back towards Toliara, first stopping at a reputable gemstone dealer, since the area is well known for its sapphire deposits. Then we made our way to Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park, the last remnant of transitional dry deciduous forest between the western and southern floristic domains. Here our guides were quite helpful in delivering our targets and more, including Coquerel's Coua, Giant Coua, Madagascar Scops Owl (Torotoroka sub sp.), White-Browed Owl, on nest Hook-billed and Rufous Vanga, the highly localized Appert's Tetraka, and the supremely weird, Cuckoo-roller, which hails from another one of Madagascar's endemic orders, the Leptosomiformes. After this visit, we made our way back to Toliara where we stayed at Bakuba Hotel, equally as weird and beautiful as the Cuckoo-Roller.
Day 14 - Return to Tan
This day was largely a travel day from Toliara to Antananarivo.
This day was largely a travel day from Toliara to Antananarivo.
Day 15 - Depart Madagascar
This was the last day of the tour, but some participants opted to stay another night to savour some final rest and & relaxation before making the journey home.
This was the last day of the tour, but some participants opted to stay another night to savour some final rest and & relaxation before making the journey home.
The Red Fody (Foudia madagascariensis) in a non-native Jacaranda Tree at Hotel Au Bois Vert
These birds pretty little red balls are quite common in human modified areas like city gardens, grasslands, and other cleared areas.
One of the earlier arriving participants had been exploring the Hotel grounds when he found these Madagascar Nightjars (Caprimulgus madagascariensis).
They roosted in the same area each day. By night, you could hear them calling as they foraged
Radiated Tortoises (Astrochelys radiata) are critically endangered in the wild but quite common as hotel pets. They are a long-term commitment though, living up to 188 years.
Madagascar's Elephant Birds were the largest bird ever, laid the largest eggs ever, and consequently had the largest single cell ever. Elephant bird eggs shells still litter many areas of Madagascar, evidence of their widespread range and relatively recent extinction around ~1000AD. It's crazy to think that their closest living relatives are New Zealand's Kiwis!
Madagascar's roads were poor but it seemed like most people kept their vehicles in good condition. It might be because the vast majority do not own cars, so it would be a privilege and worthy investment to protect.
Accommodations at Hotel Au Bois Vert. Conveniently located to the Tana airport, unique Mada-focused decor, and a large menu at the restaurant including woodfire pizzas.
Accommodations at Hotel Au Bois Vert. Conveniently located to the Tana airport, unique Mada-focused decor, and a large menu at the restaurant including woodfire pizzas.
Another example of a different rooming offering at Hotel Au Bois Vert
Black-crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax) at Lake Alarobia in Tsarasaotra Park. This park is one of the few natural areas within the city and home to many birds, especially water birds.
Andasibe Cyperus Hotel, our stay for our first lead of the tour near the Eastern Rainforests of Madagascar. We were so close to the rainforest that after waking up you could hear the eerie calls of Indri, the world's largest living lemurs!
All of our accommodations across Madagascar were quite nice!
The bigger the room, the more I can splay out all my gear and clothes and mess it up. I always try to remember to take photos of the room BEFORE I do this.
Day Geckos are thee butterflies of the gecko world - active by day and quite colourful, such as this male Striped Day Gecko (Phelsuma lineata).
The Parson's Chameleon (Calumma parsonii) is HUGE! This male with nose horns was the size of a small cat! Seen in V.O.I.M.M.A. Community Reserve.
Madagascan Rivercruiser (Phyllomacromia trifasciata)
Rainforest subspecies of Madagascar Scops-Owl (Otus rutilus rutilus)
Crested Drongo (Dicrurus forficatus forificatus) on nest
Indri! The largest living Lemur and a Critically Endangered species! What a thrill it was go from hearing them distantly from our hotel, and then louder and louder as we moved closer and closer until BAM! All of a sudden they were 10 feet from us! These large, tailless lemurs mostly maintain an upright posture, giving them a more human-like appearance reminding you that they are in the Primate lineage.
This family group had some young, likely atleast 4-5 months old, still clinging to mother's back. Indri are long-term monogamous, and like most lemurs, they are form a female dominated society.
Mature Indri females only give birth every 2-3 years, so we definitely felt privileged to see the young.
Habitat loss is their biggest threat. Analamazaotra Special Reserve, where we observed this group is one of the premier places to see Indri. However, this reserve was once connected to Mantadia National Park. However logging and deforestation for farming has resulted in these parks now being isolated. Habitat loss has shrunk population sizes, home range size, reduced genetic diversity, and limited their dietary options.
A well camouflaged Collared Nightjar, (Gactornis enarratus) nesting in a Bird's Nest Fern (Asplenium sp.)
A different Collared Nightjar nearby, day roosting on the ground. Checkout that lovely chesnut brown collar.
A female Velvet Asity (Philepitta castanea) foraging berries in edge habitat. Although not as colourful as the neon caruncled males, it was still a very welcomed sighting as Asites are an endemic family of birds in Madagascar
Malagasy Kingfisher (Corythornis vintsioides) is one of two species of kingfishers in Madagascar. This species is a type of river or pygmy kingfisher commonly found around water. While Madagascar's other species - the Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher (Corythornis madagascariensis) is a type of tree or wood kingfisher found within rainforests.
White-throated Rail (Dryolimnas cuvieri). Colourful, cool (not so shy) , and confident looking. "schweeet"! (it's call).
Common Brown Lemurs (Eulemur fulvus) , are as you could image relatively widespread species of lemur, of course only in Madagascar.
Despite being common, they are a Vulnerable species because of Madagascar's well-documented habitat loss. However I'm from Southern Ontario, Canada so I shouldn't be too critical. Hopefully there's a more sustainable solution that benefits conservation and the economy.
Portrait of a Common Brown Lemur
Madagascar Green Pigeon (Treron australis) looks pretty similar to the African Green Pigeon but of course, only found in Madagascar. We had a saying on tour, when in doubt when you see a species, just add Madagascar to the front and you'll probably be right.
Chabert Vanga or Ward's Flycatcher?! This is a Ward's Flycatcher (Pseudobias wardi), a species of Vanga that looks like a Flycatcher. Now why would the Chabert's Vanga apparently look like a Flycatcher or vice-versa? I don't know. Someone please tell me!
All I have to say is WOW! Madagascar Blue Vanga (Cyanolanius madagascarinus). 1/3 Madagascar endemic birds with "blue" in their name.
The Andasibe Railway Station was established by the French in the early 1900s near Analamazaotra village that was named after Henri Périnet, the principal railway engineer on this section. From Périnet station, logging camps along the railway were established for railway construction. The biggest logging camp was established close to Périnet station itself and simply called Andasibe (= at the big camp). Until today, the names Analamazaotra, Périnet and Andasibe are used interchangeably. The rail network and associated villages served as a network to expedite the exploitation of timber and depletion of forest resources. The introduction of both pine and eucalyptus dates back to the 1910s and in some areas of Analamazaotra these trees are still prevalent.
Goodman's Mouse Lemur (Microcebus lehilahystara). Mouse lemurs are the smallest primates in the world. This one here probably weighs as much as two AA batteries. We saw it on a night hike, as it quickly leapt and ran through the roadside shrubs and trees. It helped that their bulbous eyes lit red from our headlamps.
"Madagascar is a land of distinctive and odd creatures, a whole different track of evolution from the rest of the world. A good example of this is the Mossy Leaf-Tailed Gecko (Uroplatus sikorae), a master of disguise whose mossy fringes and colour changing abilities allow it to blend into the tree truncks where it sleeps during the day." - from Wildlife of Madagascar
Mossy Leaf-Tailed Geckos are much easier to see at night when their are moving around and not camouflaged against a bark backdrop.
Previously, I had only seen photos of them during the day, and it seemed like it would be near impossible to spot them.
The saying goes Bright-Eyed and Slippery-Skinned right? Here's a Green Bright-Eyed Frog (Boophis viridis) looking alert and happy to start the night. Maybe he'll get lucky and call in a female.
Check out this huge Madagascar Moon Moth (Argema mittrei)!
Adorned with eye spots and equipped with long-tails, this moth hopes to deflect attacks from birds and bats away from it's head and body. This one was in pretty good condition, just a little damage to the tips of its forewings, possibly from a recent attack.
While driving over 50km/h, our guides heard or saw something near the road that they knew our group would want to see.
A Pitta-like Ground-Roller (Atelornis pittoides)! Ground-Rollers form a family of birds only found in Madagascar, and this is arguable the most spectacular looking. The green, rufous, blue, white, and spangles behind the eye...oh my!
Post Pitta-like Ground-Roller Smiles!
Feeling the sensation of the Sakalava Fire Millipede (Aphistogoniulus sakalava)
In other parts of Madagascar, stopped Red-fronted lemurs in Madagascar some lemurs chew and rub millipedes on their body as a form of self-medication against intestinal parasites, and mosquitoes. There's also some speculation that they also get high from this activity.
High above, a loud and raucous conspiracy of Black-and-White Ruffed Lemurs growled loudly as they interacted with each other.
These lemurs are high canopy specialists, spending most of their time feeding on fruits.
These lemurs are purported to be important seed dispersers and major pollinators of some of Madagascar's trees. Favourites include the Ramy Tree, Traveller's Tree, and the non-native Strawberry Guava.
A striking example of convergent evolution - The colourful and toxic Baron's Mantella Frog (Mantella baroni) resemble poison dart frogs from the Neotropics, but they are unrelated.
Apparently there not that toxic! Our guide proceeded to pick up the frog and show us its underside!
"Tale of Two Pigeons: Madagascar's two native pigeons exemplify varied origins of its biological riches. Green pigeons are found in both Africa and Asia, but the Madagascar Green Pigeon is closely realted from nearby African Green Pigeon, and it seems clear that Madagascar was colonized from nearby Africa in this case. Blue pigeons on the other hand are found only in the Malagasy region. Their closest relative seems to be the Cloven-featered Dove, found on the island of New Caledonia, 1,200km eat of Australia in th ePacifici Ocean. Despite having managed to arrive from OCeania and thrive on the remote opposite side of the Indian Ocean, blue pigeons never successfully colonized the African mainland." 2/3 Madagascar Blue ____ birds.
We saw a few rather large snails (Helicophanta sp.) while in the rainforest
Chassalia sp.
Leiophasmatinae sp. of stick insect
What a chonky boi! This Short-legged Ground Roller (Brachypteracias leptosomus) is showing us it more arboreal than terrestrial than other Ground-Roller. This group holds a special place in my heart, I love their colours and patterns, their shapes, their "boop" vocalizations, and of course the fact that they're only found in Madagascar! This species is a vulnerable species as risk because of the habitat loss and fragmentation of Madagascar's rainforests.
The Blue Emperor Darner (Anax imperator). This dragonfly has a decent presence in Southern Africa and is well-documented in Europe, even as far north as Finland!
Our group worked HARD to see these Diademed Sifakas. Knowing this would be our last chance to see them on our tour, our guides Julian, Marcelon, and Nono used their tracking skills to locate this small group. At a quick pace, we grasped onto saplings to make our way up steep terrain for a good viewing opportunity.
Sweaty and tired but feeling grateful!
Throughout most of their range, Diademed Sifakas are one of the most colourful lemurs with rich orange arms and legs.
We were happy to see the success of these lemurs that were reintroduced to Analamazaotra Special Reserve in 2006 and 2007 after being extirpated since the 1970s. From 27 individuals, this population has since grown to 60 or more!
3/3! The Blue Vanga, The Blue Pigeon, and now The Madagascar Blue Coua. We accomplished the Madagascar endemic blue trifecta! All birds are beautifully blue and have interesting evolutionary histories!
Long-billed Bernieria (Bernieria madagascariensis) is the longest billed member of the Bernieridae (Tetrakas and allies) familiy. It wasn't until recently with genetic advances that the this family of 11 species from 8 genera was validated. Before confirmation, some members of the family were placed in "wastebin taxa" uniting unrelated lineages that looked similar and had similar habitat associations.
There's no giraffes in Madagascar, unless you mean Giraffe-necked Weevils! Although it's considered part of the Africa, the island of Madagascar is absent of any large game animals synonymous with the continent. Despite their diminutive size they should be high on any naturalists' must-see in Madagascar lists. Many thanks to this one for sticking its neck out for us. Although we saw their Melastomataceae host plants in many places around Andasibe, we didn't see one until our last couple hours in the region.
Chameleons are always crowd pleasers, likely because of their panoramic vision and their relatively slow and unique movements allowing observers more time to appreciate their features and behaviours. How could you not smile?!
This Short-horned Chameleon (Calumma brevicorne) was quite cooperative and didn't take long to establish us as a non-threat.
Their unique fused finger grip feels pretty neat too.
Before leaving the Andasibe area we got some close encounters of lemurs at Lemur Island, a self-described lemur sanctuary near Vakona Lodge. Lemur Island is largely a cageless sanctuary, where lemurs are free to climb jump and roam on small "islands" surrounded by a moat. Pictured is a Common Brown Lemur.
Nothing beats the thrill of seeing wild lemurs in their natural habitat, but seeing them up close was still much appreciated. Pictured is a Black-and-White Ruffed Lemur, normally found high in the canopy.
Apparently Lemur Island contributes to conservation by caring for rescued lemurs, some breeding programs, and releasing candidate individuals back to the wild. I say apparently because I can't find any information elsewhere to verify this. If this is true, it makes it a much more enriching experience knowing it's not a zoo of poached individuals.
Lemur Island (captive) Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemur. Bamboo is unpalatable to most because its super fibrous and some species produce potent cyanide toxins. It's a back and forth evolutionary arms race for bamboo to produce toxins to dissuade lemurs, and lemurs evolving more sophisticated mechanisms for detoxification. Bamboo lemurs are Madagascar's ecological equivalent to the Giant Panda and Red Panda, in their unique specialization in a primarily bamboo diet. "The evolution of this behaviour has allowed these species to 'corner the market' in bamboo and reduce competition with other lemurs. However, there is a price to pay: having 'driven into an evolutionary cul-de-sac,' becoming intimately tied to their food sources and vulnerable to any changes that might impact them.
Leapin' Lemur! Lemur Island (captive) Diademed Sifaka
Leapin' Lemur! Lemur Island (captive) Diademed Sifaka
Our group with our super bird guide, Julian (front and center), and his brother, Marcelon (right, front and center) a hardworking tracker in front of Andasibe Train Station. Julian and Marcelon made for an excellent duo. Julian is a very knowledgable and passionate birder who loves to show his clients as many of Madagascar's birds as he can. They're both very hard workers and we were lucky to have them on this leg of our journey!
Our vehicular transport for our southwest adventures
Pretty comfortable and spacious for 8 people including guides and drivers!
La Mira Hotel - Our oceanside accommodations near Ifaty Spiny Forest. We could see, hear and smell the ocean from our rooms.
There was a nice beach on site for a refreshing swim. There were jellyfish in the water but I cautiously (stupidly?) touched each part to find out that they were not a stinging species.
There's nothing like a sunset in providing peace, renewal and rejuvenation.
Admiring the unique flora of the Dr. Seussian Ifaty Spiny Forest
Madagascar's Spiny Forest is one of the most unique habitats with 48% of the genera and 95% of the species found no where else on the planet. The high degree of endemism is owing to the harsh, semi-arid environment that has pressured life into extreme and usual adaptations
Octopus Trees (Didiereoideae spp.) with their succulent leaves and spiny trucks exhibit some of the adaptations necessary for survival here.
Basking in the majesty of Baobabs. This is a Fony Baobab (Adansonia rubrostipa) a real baobab species. Fony means honesty, sacrificer or admirer; while phony means fake.
Young bottle-shaped baobabs (Adansonia rubrostipa) with reddish brown bark.
Ghost-Men (Pachypodium geayi) - A giant pachypodium (meaning 'elephant foot') over almost 5m tall.
Pachypodiums are succulent plants that exhibit lots of microenvironmental variation, existing anywhere from a flattened and blobby dwarf species to bottle-shaped shrubs and to these catcus like trees. Despite the variation, most pachypodiums can be identified by their thicc trunks often equipped with spines, both which are adaptations to hot and dry environments.
The enigmatic Long-Tailed Ground-Roller (Uratelornis chimaera) - It was a treat to see this vulnerable species with a small range only in Madagascar's Southwest sprinting through the Spiny Forest understory.
Built like a Roadrunner, the Long-Tailed Ground-Roller is a denizen of the Spiny Forest understory. Built for speed with a long tail for balance, strong legs for running, brown and white mottled plumage for camouflage, a long-bill for catching invertebrates and small vertebrates.
Considered elusive and shy, we were lucky to have a team of hard working guides and trackers locate this bird and essentially herd it (and our group) into idea view spots. The bird was light on its feel, quick and agile, but also froze for several moments giving us good time for study (and photos).
Another epic Spiny Forest species - Subdesert Mesite! Mesites are another extraordinary, ancient, and evolutionary unique group with 3 different species in Madagascar. Once thought to be related to rails due to anatomical similarities, phylogenomic studies point to closer relation to sandgrouse or possibly cuckoos.
A practically flightless and normally ground-dwelling bird, that cleans and probes insects from low vegetation in the soil; this small group of Subdesert Mesites were flushed into the shrubs, where they exhibited their typical hunched and frozen defensive posture.
Can you spot the three eyes? Madagascar Iguana (Chalarodon madagascariensis) otherwise known as the Three-eyed Lizard. The third eye isn't for clairvoyance or seeing aural energies, but it is actually a functioning pineal eye that contains photoreceptors.
I wonder what the function of their third eye is for. After my failed attempts at catching one with my hand, I wonder if it's used as a shortcut connection the brain, allowing the lizard to more quickly evade potential predators. It had lightning quick reflexes!
Another terrestrial Madagascar avian specialty, the Running Coua (Coua cursor).
Identifying the terrestrial couas can be a little tricky. Important places to look is. the facial skin and colour wash to the underparts - where is it purpleish, rufous, whiteish)
The underparts of this population of Running Couas is much darker and colourful than is depicted in the Birds of Madagascar plates.
Not your typical showstopper Parrot - Greater Vasa Parrot (Coracopsis vasa). I'm not sure what's going on with its cloaca here. Infection?
What it lacks in pizzaz, it makes up for with it's weirdness. Although this is a female, one of the weirdest things about these parrots is that the males can invert their cloaca, using it like a phallus during copulation. I suspect that this is a female because of its bill is lighter in colour and it appears to be molting some head feathers giving way to orangish skin.
What a Pretty Parrot! - This Greater Vasa Parrrot is most certainly a female. During breeding season, females molt their head feathers and their underlying skin turns bright orange or yellow.
I wonder why female Greater Vasa Parrots shed their head feathers and develop brightly-coloured skin. Is it to attract a mate? Is it for physiological reasons like to reduce chance of infection or increase thermoregulation? Or do they just have really annoying babies give her lots of stress?
Subdesert Brush Warbler, a snack, and its mate above.
Pencil Snake, I love the latin name: Mimophis mahfalensis
"Say 'mahfalensis' "
Dumeril's Boa (Acrantophis dumerili)!
Malagasy boas were traditionally considered to have biogeographic relationships to South American Boas. But the explanations for this link were hypothetical and weak. Did snakes raft on vegetation all the way from South America or did their ancestors survive hundreds of millions of years when Africa and South America were linked? Recent molecular phylogenetic studies suggest that Malagasy's boas are most closely related to the African Burrowing Python (Calabaria reinhardtii).
There's lots to see in the Spiny Forest! We were interested in seeing it all, from big to small.
Check out this defensive Colossopus Katydid (Colossopus grandidieri)
Huntsman Spider (Damastes sp.)
We had lots of great meals during out trip and I admittedly was not great at taking pictures of much of them but I had to capture Paul with this huge Zebu tomahawk steak.
Our ferry we took from Toliara to Nosy Ve and Anakao Ocean Lodge. Despite the seemingly close distance, a ferry is a much quicker way to travel from Toliara to Anakao as the road between is not very direct, nor paved.
Ferry to Nosy Ve and Anakao
Traditional fishing boat known as a pirogue or lakana outrigger canoe. You can see a woman with 'masonjoany', a wood paste used as a decorative cosmetic and as a protective sunscreen and insect repellent.
Sailing these boats are Vezo people.
Vezo people are a semi-nomatic group of coastal people in SW Madagascar
Vezo means 'the people who fish'
These essentially hollowed out canoes, powered by 'crab claw sails' and paddles, are taken out in appropriate weather up to 5km from shore to catch fish using lines, nets, and spears.
The many pirogues we passed provided some interesting cultural photo opportunities
They may be tiny but there were hundreds of Vezo's and their pirogues off the coast of Toliara and Anakao.
Traditional fishing boat known as a pirogue or lakana outrigger canoe
We visited the small, scared island of Nosy Vé which hosts the only breeding colony of Red-Tailed Tropicbirds in Madagascar.
We saw several individuals soaring above as we walked the islands trails.
A local Vezo fisherman was our site guide. Vezo means the people who fish. Although their Malagasy dialect points to an ethnic origin from the Malayo-Polynesian language group derived from the Barito languages, spoken in southern Borneo. Yet, Vezo people emphatically state that their shared identity is not based on common origins but rather their way of life. If you're semi-nomadic with the skills and callouses of someone who can survive out at sea then you'll fit right in.
Our stay at Anakao Ocean Lodge
The paths and bungalows blended in with the sandy beaches.
Littoral Rock Thrush
Jess with a wild Critically Endangered Radiated Tortoise! Captive specimens at hotels are quite common but seeing one in the wild is super special!
This one was an absolute beaut!
Radiated Tortoises can live over 100 years. I hope that guides like Felix here can make more money by showing people these amazing animals than by selling or eating them for bushmeat.
Richie spotted a group of Ring-Tailed Lemurs in Tsimanampetsotsa National Park. We slowly followed them through the Spiny Forest to view them.
Ring-Tailed Lemurs typically live in large social groups and to keep order, they have strong social rules, hierarchies and complex communication systems involving lots of scent marking and vocalizations. This male ring-tailed is scent marking with a sweet, fruity aroma from glands on their wrists, which seems to attract females during breeding season.
This female already had a young one.
During mating season, ring-tailed lemur males can engage in stink fights, rubbing secretions from their wrist, chest and genital glands all over their tails, and then wafting it in the air. In comparison, human fart battles between male conspecifics are
We reveled in this close-encounter experience with an Endangered species!
As with many lemur species, female ring-tails are socially dominant. But in this case, males still vie for female attention by staging physical 'jumping fights' and the aforementioned stink fights. Female (left) and male (right) with horny wrist spurs used to pierce branches before scent marking them.
Madagascar has some huge cockroaches!
Don't fret, these giants prefer natural habitat and aren't considered pests. This one is from the tribe Gromphadorhini, know famously as the hissing cockroaches.
Just a boy admiring his cockroach
Madagascar Sandgrouse
Black-winged Stilt, male
Black-winged Stilt
Madagascar Plover - the only plover endemic to Madagascar and with a quite small population range (139 km2). They are listed as a vulnerable species because of ow breeding success, slow reproductive rate, and weak adaptation to increasing habitat loss.
Check out the spiny tail of the Merrem's Madagascar Swift (Oplurus cyclurus)
Merrem's Swift (Oplurus cyclurus)
Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher, rufous morph
Madagascar Bee-eater
Big hug for the bottled-shaped Bozy (Adansonia rubrostipa). Although it was long assumed that baobabs store water in their trucks for use during drought, recent research indicates they actually store this water for structural stability.
The wrinkled Grandmother Baobab in Tsimanampetsotse National Park. This ancient, stunted baobab is estimated to be at least 1,600 years old!
Dating baobabs can be difficult to age accurately.
Endangered Blind Fish (Typhleotris madagascariensis) in Mitoho Grotto, a sacred cave in Tsimanampetsotse where fossils of the extinct giant tortoise, giant lemur, and elephant bird egg shells have been found.
Dumeril's Madagascar Swift (Oplurus quadrimaculatus) - Madagascar's reptilian swifts are somewaht of a mystery. They are closely related to iguanids that are found oinly in the America's and on some Pacific islands. It's thought they probably originate from the ancient time when Madagascar was connected to South America via Antarctica.
Unlike the iguanids, Madagascar's swifts are found only in dry habitats, not in rainforest. Recently Madagascar swifts were moved from Igaunidae, to their own regionally endemic family, the Opluridae. Pictured is a Merrem's Swift.
Running Coua (Coua cursor)
Greater Flamingos
The gang on the shores of Lake Tsimanampetsotse
Return boat ride to Toliara from Anakao
Return boat ride to Toliara from Anakao
Antsokay's Arboretum was a nice place to visit for a flora focused walk with an passionate guide. Possibly Pachypodium geayi
Antsokay's Arboretum was a nice place to visit for a flora focused walk with an passionate guide. Possibly Pachypodium geayi
At Antsokay's Arboretum you can also spy some chameleons. Spiny Chameleon (Furcifer verrucosus)
Spiny Chameleon (Furcifer verrucosus). I'll never tire of chameleon eyes!
Several of Madagascar's trees, like this Euphoria tree have peeling bark, that exposes a photosynthetic later of bark below. Stem recycling photosynthesis could be an important adaptation in hot and dry environments, by allowing plants and trees to continue to provide carbon resources when leaf photosynthesis is likely to have all but ceased. It has also been shown to increase water use efficiency, play an important role in supporting stem hydraulic function, reduce water loss.
Madagascar Kestrel atop a Didiereaceae
Renala 'Mother of the Forest' Baobab (Adansonia grandidieri)
Entering Bara County
Our epic accommodation at Hotel Le Jardin du Roy, nestled within runiforme sandstone massifs.
Hotel Le Jardin du Roy. Steep pitched roofs and granite stone walled architecture served to blend and contrast with the environment.
Hotel Le Jardin du Roy. The forms were repeated throughout the grounds.
Hotel Le Jardin du Roy. The architectural patterns of the main buildings were repeated in the design of the smaller villas that housed 4 separate rooms each.
In the courtyard, Madagascar
The hotel was bordered by sandstone massifs dotted with Pachypodium rosulatum gracilius. Remember the giant Pachypodiums previously?!
At night the hotel was quiet except for the White-browed and Madagascar Scops Owl calling. Scouring the sandstone revealed much more activity including a wonderful array of insects and geckos such as this Betroka Leaf-toed Gecko (Paroedura guibeae)
Isalo National Park
Isalo National Park
Isalo National Park with site guide Florice and local guide Nono
Madagascar Lark
The stunning Rainbow Milkweed Locust
A plump unidentified Owlfly.
A different Owlfly (Palpares amitinus)
This Madagascar trip was a photographer's delight! Small group size, great guide to participant ratio, and an amazing biodiversity with species seen no where else!
Merrem's Madagascar Swift
Rainbow Milkweed Locusts. Their colour is beautiful but a clear warning to predators of their toxicity acquired by feeding on milkweed plants.
Isalo National Park
Crimson Dropwing Dragonfly (Trithemis selika)
Overlooking the depths of the canyon where watercourses run and vegetation concentrates.
Flatid Leaf Bugs (Flatida rosea) look like they would be tasty! I'm sure they're not but one can dream. Peach? Tangerine? Strawberry Marshmellow?
Dumeril's Madagascar Swift
Banded Day Gecko
Banded Day Gecko (Phelsuma standingi) a very large and beautiful gecko that has been a target for the international pet trade, putting it on the vulnerable species list.
Thick Tail Gecko (Phelsuma mutabilis)
Red-Tailed Vanga (Calicalicus rufocarpus) reminded me of a chickadee
Appert's Tetraka (Xanothomixis apperti) a highly localized species only known from two relatively small locations. This one was seen well in Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park. It was only described in 1972, greenbul genus Phyllastrephus, and later with the Old World warblers in the genus Bernieria. Recent research indicates it is part of an endemic Malagasy radiation currently known as the Malagasy warblers.
White-browed Owl (Ninox superciliaris)
Giant Coua (Coua gigas) in Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park. Though this is the largest living coua, two extinct species would have topped this one. Coua berthae was twice the size of the giant coua, so we would have to call it the Gigantic Coua and the Snail-Eating Coua which went extinct around the late 1800's.
Spiny Chameleon (Furcifer verrucosus)
Rufous Vanga (Schetba rufa) with food for...
....it's hungry babies!
Rufous Vanga (Schetba rufa) on nest
Ringy Baobab (Adansonia Za)
The Group with Adansonia Za duo
The Group with Adansonia Za duo
Between these baobab's was a nest of a Hook-Billed Vanga (Vanga curvirostris)
Our best chance at seeing Verreaux's Sifaka (Propithecus verreauxi) was at here at Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park. With our site guides attuned ears and eyes, we lucked out seeing a family of 7 or so. I loved this ones goofy appearance.. It seemed really stoked about the leaves (it's main food source) it found.
Verreaux's Sifaka (Propithecus verreauxi) - I was stoked to see this species of sifaka because it closely resembled Zaboomafoo (a Coquerel's Sifaka) from the TV show I watched as a kid.
Juvenile Verreaux's Sifaka (Propithecus verreauxi)
Mother and infant Verreaux's Sifaka (Propithecus verreauxi)
Bakuba Lodge - A wonderfully unique stay near Toliara. It felt like a cross between the Tatooine planet from Star Wars and steam punk.
Everything about Bakuba Lodge was unique. Every room was different. These stairs led up to an upper level dining and relaxation level.
